For most of us, the only connection we have with the varietal of citrus called Poorman’s Orange is the book by Ruth Parke that we all read as children. The fruit, which is said to be a cross between a tangerine and a pomelo, is relatively rare and very few have ever had the chance to cut through its thick outer skin.
It was that sense of almost exclusivity, as well as the sweet, juicy, succulent nature of the fruit, with its slightly bitter undertones, that intrigued and almost obsessed Australian distillers Archie Rose.
“It captivated us, the uniqueness of flavour and its rarity in Australia,” said Archie Rose founder, Will Edward. “We’ve distilled a whole bunch of citrus before – both bergamot and laraha are great in gin – but we’d never come across Poorman’s orange.
Yet the distilleries fixation on this humble fruit didn’t just inspire a gin expression, it inspired and will continue to spark a series of spirit expressions that the distillery will release every year.
The Harvest series doesn’t just concentrate on a particular fruit but goes much further to shine a light on the growers, providores, foragers and regions that the distillery has worked within the preceding year. The series has been designed to celebrate the provenance, sustainability and diversity of the annual Australian harvest.
“We knew of Peter Dryden and his reputation for growing unusual and high-quality produce for Australian restaurants,” continued Edwards. “From a conversation among friends to one of our most ambitious releases, it all snowballed from there.
“The heat and drought combined with the recent bushfires has resulted in 80% of Peter’s farm being burnt which will have a significant impact on the 2020 crop. We, therefore, feel very fortunate and humbled to be featuring the 2019 harvest of Poorman’s orange in this spirit.”
Edwards points out that the relationship that the distillery has with growers has always been fundamental to what they do. “Our spirits are all made from raw ingredients – there’s no getting away from it. You have to source great produce to make great spirits – it’s as simple as that,” he said.
The first expression of the Harvest series will, of course, feature the Poor Mans Orange, as well as bergamot orange peel, emerald green finger lime and lemon-scented gum, to produce a vintage gin that is bold and complex, with a naturally infused orange blossom blush.
“Harvest, as a release, allows us to focus on a raw ingredient like a grain or botanical and really invest in it,” continued Edwards. “It becomes a reflection of the year that’s passed, our relationship with different growers and what’s captivating our team at that particular point in time.”
While the appearance of the gin has a slight amber blush, the nose offers the scent of a spring orchard; heady with vibrant citrus peel, fresh flowers and dewy grass. As the aroma settles tropical fruits, honey, pine and berry sherbet can be found.
The gin is said to have a somewhat syrupy texture that makes way for pronounced and nuanced citrus tones that are underpinned by mango before resolving with raspberry jam. The finish offers a satisfyingly dry conclusion with lingering notes of citrus and juniper.
“Making a really nice summery citrusy gin sounds right up our alley,” continued Edwards, “we’re very experienced in this kind of stuff – we know how to troubleshoot. But it was much trickier than you’d imagine. It was the most technically difficult gin we’ve ever created.
Harvest Gin will be released on 24 February. For more details go to archierose.com.au
