There’s a bar in Singapore called Atlas that houses over a 1,000 different Gins. They are displayed in the three-story-tall gin tower, with it’s carved wooden columns and glass shelving that looks like it was pulled straight out of the film The Great Gatsby.
But Altas is very picky about the Gin that they house. Their range is diverse and from all over the world but the one thing they insist on is that all the Gins are all at least 40% ABV, because as they say, when Gin is stronger, “the botanicals are like perfume.”
Now while a 1,000 Gins might seem a lot, the ongoing Gin craze means that this number doesn’t even scratch the surface of what is available globally. There are more Gin distilleries opening globally then at any time in recent history.
And while it is believed that there is still growth to be had in the industry and that there are markets that are still relatively un-tapped, there is a growing dissatisfaction about the quality of some Gin that is being produced.
Across the industry, amongst both small and large producers, there is a growing dissatisfaction about what we perceive Gin to be and how it is defined. There are many that believe that what is being called Gin, really isn’t.
So when is Gin not Gin?
Well the experts will tell you that it’s when it’s actually ends up just being flavoured Vodka with a little Juniper.
The established rule for Gin is that it must predominantly taste of Juniper and be at least 37.5% ABV. If the ABV is less than that, it is usually defined as a Gin Liqueur. But that first part, that it has to “predominantly” taste like juniper, is where the problems arise.
If you look at most other spirits such as Tequila or any of the Whisk(e)y’s, there are very clear requisites around what defines them as that spirit. But being defined by flavour, can end up in a mess where everyone’s interpretation is purely subjective.
At present there is no real governing body that can decide whether a Gin tastes more like Juniper than, say, Cucumber or Citrus. And this is something that James Hayman from Hayman’s Gin wants to change.
Hayman, a fifth generation distiller, is leading the campaign to gain better regulation in the industry. At the beginning of next month he is leading a Gin debate, which will discuss protecting the future of the spirit.
“Recently we have started to see some distillers marketing gins that have little to no Juniper character,” said Hayman. “Such products undermine the work that the vast majority of distillers complete and run the risk of misleading consumers by blurring boundaries between gin and other spirit drinks.”
How broad are the interpretations?
As the Gin craze only increases, there are many new distillers that are putting what some may call, a rather broad interpretation on what the definition of Gin really means.
“[We] run the risk of misleading consumers by blurring boundaries between Gin and other spirit drinks.”
As The Spirits Business has commented, there are a number of producers that are skirting the rules in various ways. These ‘broad interpretations’ range from having additional flavours that overwhelm the Juniper to really having next to no Juniper in the spirit at all.
Why is the definition being exploited?
Gin is seeing growth rates like never before and the category is worth serious money both for local craft distiller as well as large exporting brands. But it’s now a crowded marketplace.
Brands both new and old are seeking new consumers and routes to market, often by deploying products of a style and profile not seen before. While some are holding true to the spirit of the existing Gin guidelines, there are others that venturing close to the edge, or even far beyond.
And these extremes are what has the majority of the industry worried. While Hayman’s “Fake Gin” campaign doesn’t point fingers, there is a true sense that the honest brokers of the industry are getting frustrated that there are more than a few people make a fast buck off the integrity of others.
And they have a right to be concerned. Realistically, there are really only so many bubblegum or unicorn tear Gins you can release into the market before Gin’s reputation begins to tarnish
There are many that believe that the confusion stems from Gin Liqueurs, with a lower ABV then Gin, being in the same category as Gin. And the assumption is that consumers do not clearer understand the difference and are treating these Liqueurs as if they are Gin.
“The renaissance of Gin could damage the category,” continued Hayman “It does not need gimmickry. The renaissance has to be true to the style. The ‘new wave’ Gins can cause great confusion. It is dangerous if we confuse people.”
Why is small batch production an issue?
Although small batch production has been the life blood of the Gin revival, the issues of authenticity are also raising concerns.
While there is nothing wrong with the idea of contract distilling, there is belief that labelling should more clearly state where an item is produced and how.
Many in the industry believe that there are a large number of ‘boutique’ Gins being produced by large contract distillers. Often the bottling and the labelling on these products imply that they are created in a small batch production environment when they are not.
Not only can this mislead the public but it also erodes the once competitive advantage of being a genuine artisan producer by false labelling and provenance.
While the industry is in broad agreement that gin needs to be better protected but it is also evident that there are many differing views on the form that such protection should take.
Until this is decided, producers will have to have faith that authenticity, provenance and a genuinely compelling story will continue to win through with consumers in the end.
The debate takes place on 6 September at the Hayman London Distillery and is open to anyone with an interest in protecting the Gin category for the future.
